TACKLE TIPS

1.       All artificial baits should be attached to the end of your line using a loop type knot that will allow for the fullest bait action when cast, jigged or trolled. I particularly like the Rapala knot depicted below because it is very strong and with a little practice, easy to tie.

2.        When Jigging blade baits, (injured baitfish type), it is best to include a swivel about 12 to 14 inches ahead of the lure. Active jigging baits can cause significant line twist when tied directly to your line. I recommend flurocarbon leader material for the leader but high quality mono will also work. For best results loop rig the jig or attach a small duo-lock snap to the end of the leader if you expect to change baits frequently. At the other end attach a small heavy-duty swivel, (like a SPRO power swivel). Use light nylon coated wire if  blues or other toothy fish are around, small crimps make it easy to form loops in light wire.

3.        If fishing with artificial baits, (buck tails, blade baits, stick baits etc.) and you can’t draw strikes try a dropper or trailer bait with the primary lure. Use baits significantly smaller than the primary and rig 12 to 14 inches ahead of or behind the primary bait. Always rig the combination with loops or at a minimum a duo-lock snap for the primary bait and dropper loop for the dropper bait. In the illustration that follows loop your line or leader material though the bait eye and then tie the knot as illustrated, bringing the bait back through the knot with the loop. The loop does not need to be large, about 2” is adequate.

            Trailer rigs attach anywhere on the primary lure that doesn’t cause tangles, (hook eye, split ring etc.) and run 12 to 14 inches behind the primary. These dropper and trailer combinations should be cast up current and allowed to flow with it, retrieving line only to maintain contact between rod tip and bait. You can’t fish it to slow. Vary your depth with the weight of your primary lure.    

4.    If you are after trophy Rockfish, (Striped Bass) but are tired of fighting the weight and tangles caused by umbrella rigs or Mo-Jo’s, rig large conventional lures with droppers and trailers and then apply plastic baits or pork rinds small enough to allow your lures to achieve their full action.

Try sea witches ahead of a primary bait or rigging two leaders from a three way swivel, 6’ top leader and heavier bait, 10’ bottom leader and lighter bait with a dropper 2’ ahead of the lighter bait. The effect of a school of bait in the water can be achieved without the downside of heavy weights and tangles.      

5.     Jigging results can be improved with the use of specific types of tackle for jigging situations. Fairly stiff rods and superbraid lines are the ideal. The line won’t stretch and the rod won’t allow much give so any action you impart will lift the bait quickly and will approximate the length of your jigging motion to the lure at depth. Since most jigged fish hit the bait on the drop back, the stiff rod and stretch free line allow you to better feel the strike and react accordingly. A short, (12” to 18”), swift upward motion and a quick drop back but not so fast you lose contact with the lure is a steady producer. Jig size varies with water depth and current speed. The ideal jigging move is as vertical as possible. The greater the angle of your line to the bottom, the fewer fish you will catch. Ideal jigging areas where tides run strong, such as bridge pilings and submerged inlet rip-rap should be fished at tide stages when current allows jigs to reach the bottom.

           Home Page